Every journey into the seven sisters of North-East India begins, more often than not, in Guwahati. Situated on the southern bank of the mighty Brahmaputra, Assam’s largest city is a place of ancient temples, river ghats busy with pilgrims, and a modern pulse that hums with the energy of a region on the move. For travellers, it is both the gateway and a destination in itself.

The Kamakhya Temple, rising on Nilachal Hill above the city, is one of the most important Shakti pithas in Hinduism. Dedicated to the goddess Kamakhya, the temple draws hundreds of thousands of pilgrims each year, particularly during the Ambubachi Mela in June — a festival celebrating the goddess’s annual cycle, when the temple closes for three days and reopens to a surge of devotion that fills the city with chanting and colour.

The Brahmaputra defines Guwahati’s character. River cruises in the evening offer views of the city skyline reflected in the wide, slow water, while the peacock island (Umananda) in the middle of the river hosts a small Shiva temple accessible by ferry. At sunset, the river turns copper and gold — a daily spectacle that locals take for granted and visitors never forget.

Guwahati’s cuisine is a gateway to Assamese food culture. Khar, masor tenga (sour fish curry), pitha (rice cakes), and the smoky flavour of bamboo-shoot preparations are served in small restaurants around Fancy Bazaar and the older neighbourhoods. The city’s food scene is unpretentious and deeply rooted in local produce.

The Assam State Museum, the region’s zoo (home to the rare golden langur and pygmy hog), and the bustling GS Road shopping district round out a city that deserves at least a day or two before you head deeper into the hills. Guwahati is not a stopover — it is the start of something extraordinary.